INVESTIGATION OF HIGH VOLUME BID MATERIALS AS POTENTIAL COLOURANTS AND FINISH CHEMICALS FOR FIBROUS SUBSTRATES BY V.G. Samudrika Wijayapala The dissertation was submitted to the Department of Textile and Clothing Technology of the University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Textile and Clothing Technology, Faculty of Engineering University of Moratuwa Moratuwa, Sri Lanka. 2010 94512 Abstract The modern consumer (1990 onwards) is aware of the toxic chemical residues on textiles/garments (resulting from dyes and chemicals used) which can have carcinogenic/ dermatological and allergic effects on the wearer, especially because textiles are in contact with human skin for 24 hours of the day. The second aspect deals with the 'pollution' (air/water) at each of all stages in production of textiles. The third concern is about the 'ecological' problems during disposal (of garbage / on incineration). The aim of this research is to show feasibility of producing high quality natural dyes from plants, creating new opportunities for both farmers and the fabric / garment industry in line with the current consumer trends towards eco-friendly natural products. The direct national benefit is shown. Environmental and economical factors too need to be considered to make this viable in the long run. Investigation of the traditional dyeing techniques and dye producing plants with special reference to Sri Lanka, and development of natural dyes and investigation of their suitability as textile dyes were the two major objectives of this research study. Research investigations based on the comprehensive analysis of 10 best dye yielding plants which have been chosen from 47 dye yielding plants in Sri Lanka are presented. The available raw material spectrum had been reviewed. The ten (10) selected species are Kothala Himbutu (Salacia reticulata), Weniwal tCoscinium fenestratum), Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum), Mangus tGarcinia mangostana), Big onion skin (Allium cepa) , Marigold (Tegetus erecta), Tea (Camellia sinensis), Jak (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Walmadata (Rubia cordifolia) and Turmeric (Curcuma domestica). Some of the above plant extracts have not been used before in textile dyeing. Environmental performance was another aspect of the research. Results from effluent characteristics of best dyeing solutions reveal significant reduction in pollution potential. The concept of ready to use dye concentrates is also presented. apnmv.JD puv ut\07 lfl!M tfVM Uf\.W ..IJolfl UJ paJnq!.JlUO:J OlfA1 Uo.JPI.'lf:J puv puvqsntt 'SJUa.Jv0 Ol DECLARATION I Samudrika Wijayapala , hereby certify that the work described in this dissertation was carried out by me in the Departments of Textile and Clothing Technology and Chemical and Process Engineering of the University of Moratuwa . Sri Lanka and Indian Institute of Technology . Kanpur. India between January 2004 and January 2010. This research project was carried out in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. This dissertation is the result of my O\Vn worl-. and includes nothing '' hich is the outcome of \\OrJ.. done in collaboration. except where otherwise stated. "\Jeither this thesis nor any part thereof has C\'er been submitted for an_> degree at this or any other University. ~~~L4a.pc.\a. Candidate U.G. Samudrika Wijayapala Reg. No. 4 I 8020 23rd rebruary 20 10 I We certify the statement above is true to best of our knowledge and that the dissertation is ready liisOll'h ~' / Professor Ajith de Ah' is Department of Chemical and Process Engineering Research Supervisor Former Senior Lecturer Grade I Department ofTextile and Clothing Technology University of Moratuwa Date: .~.~ . 9.2- . ~ .~'P fO ~ .... ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS "Authorship of any sort is a fantastic indulgence of the ego. It is well no doubt, to reflect on lww much one owes to others- J.K.Ga/braith" In an endeavor of this nature there are many who have helped and given advice in their own ways. However. certain names come to my mind which I should speci fically mention. First and foremost m) sincere thanks and gratitude to my research supervisors Professor Ajith de Alwis. Department of Chemical and Process fngineering and Mr. NGH de Silva. Former Senior Lecturer, Department oJ 'Texti le and Clothing Technology of the Universi ty of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, for introducing me to the project and for their infectious enthusiasm, able supervision, valuable guidance and encouragement throughout the research work. My heartfelt thanks to Dr. Padma S. Vankar. Principal researcher at the Facility of Ecological and Analytical Laboratory. Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur. India, for providing me with guidance and sample analysis facilities . ... M) sincere thanks to Dr. TSS Jaya-wardane. Research Co-ordinator of Department of Textile and Clothing Technology. Univcrsit) of Moratuv.a, for encouraging and supporting me in every aspect to compiete my research. I would like to thank to Mr. VA Nandasena for his vital presence and contributions in the progress revie-w committee as Chairman and the valuable guidance and suggestions provided to make this study a success. It is with sincere thanks that I would recall the helping hands offered by Head of Department. Dr. Sandun Fernando and all the staff members of the Department of Textile and Clothing Technology of University of Moratuwa, to complete this research study successfull y. I would like to thank Mr. Chandana Malalanayake. Ms. Dilum Dissanayake. Staff Technical Officers and Mr. W. Chandradasa. Lab attendant of the Wet Processing Laboratory. Department of Textile and Clothing Technology. University of Moratuwa for supporting me in laborator) work. Ill I also wish to express my thanks to Ms.Vijitha Rathnayake and Mr. AL Amarasckara Mr. Sanjccwa Silva , Ms.Saroja , Mr.Nishantha for assisting in the collection of raw materials for my research work. I also wish to extend my thanks to academic staff members, Mr. NL Wanigatungc & Dr. WDG Lanarolle for helping me to complete literature survey of my research. I extend my acknowledgement to Ms. Kusum Kapuruge, Ms. Padma Rajapaksha, Mr. GHD Wijesena and Ms.Shashika Perera. Ms. Mihiri Fernando for the support given in numerous ·ways. I acknowledge Mr. Muditha Dayaratnc , Managing Directo~, · Colourmate (Pvt) Ltd .. and Brandix Finishing Limited , Pannala for providing labrics for dyeing trials. I extend my sincere thanks to Mrs. Seneviratne, Mr. Waduge and Mr. Viraj from Atomic Energy Authority of Sri Lanka for providing me facilities and assistance in their Laboratory. I would like to thank the library staff of University of Moratuwa, National Museum. Industrial Technology Institute, University of Sri Jayewardenepura, University of Indigenous medicine and Public Library of Colombo for their tremendous support in finding the literature for the study, which would have been much difficult without their committed service. No adequate words can be found to express my feelings for my husband Anura Wijayapala. my children and parents. and sisters for assisting my work in numerous ways. I should specially mention my elder daughter for assisting me to collect raw materials for analysis. sincerely acknowledge the blessings, guidance, encouragement and moral support, cooperation and sacrifice of my parents & my family. lV Samudrika Wijayapala University of Moratuwa Sri Lanka. 20.02.2010 DECLARATION ABSTRACT ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS CONTE~TS ABREVIATIO~S LIST OF FIGLRES LIST OFT ABLES CONTENTS Chapter One- INTRODUCTION AN D OVERVIEW 1.1 The need for natural dyes 1.2 Present situation & justification for the study 1.3 Objectives .1 1.4 Scope and overview of the research work into natural dyes Chapter Two- LITERATURE SURVEY 2.1 I Iistory of colouration 2.1.1 Water colour painting 2.1.2 Tempera painting 2.1.3 Fresco painting 2.1.4 Oil painting 2.2 Evolution of synthetic dyes 2.3 Environmental aspects of synthetic dyes 2.4 Textile colourants 2.5 Chemical basis of textile colouration ... 2.6 Classification of synthetic textile colourants 2. 7 Natural dyes 2.8 Classification of natural dyes 2.8.1 Classification based on origin 2.8.2 Classification based on chemical nature 2.8.3 Classification based on application 2.8.4 Classification based on colour 2.8.5 Sources of natural dyes on the basis of colour v Page II III-IV V-IX X AI-:\\ X\ I-IX 3 4 5 7 10 1 I II II II 14 15 16 18 21 23 23 25 25 26 26 2. 9 Extraction methods of natural dyes 2.10 Natural dyeing 2.1 0.1 Advantages of natural dyes 2.11 Mordants and mordanting 2.1 1.1 Tannins and tannic acid 2.11.2 Application of tannins 2.1 1.3 Metal mordants 2.11 A Oil mordants 2.11.5 Mordanting 2.12 Fastness properties of natural dyes 2.13 Environmental aspects of natural dyeing , 2.14 Comparison of environmental and safety aspects oflatura1 and Synthetic dyes 2.15 Natural dyes and dyeing practices in Sri Lanka 2.16 History of dye practices ,. 2.16.1 Mural Painting 2.16.2 Apsara paintings 2.16.3 The caves and paintings 2.16.4 Robe dyeing 2.16.5 Vfat wea\ing 2.16.6 Masks 2.16.7 Batiks 2.16.8 Lacquer wor!.. 2.16.9 Body painting 2.16.10 !lair dyeing 2.17 I land Loom weaving ... 2.17.1 The Moor weavers of Marudamunai · 2.17.2 The cotton weavers ofTalagune 2.18 Recent developments of natural dyes 2.19 Estimates of dye requirements Vl 30 30 30 31 32 33 33 34 34 35 37 38 39 44 45 47 48 49 49 51 51 52 53 53 55 55 56 59 59 Chapter Three- STUOY METHODOLOGY 3.1 Materials and methods 61 3 .1.1 Literature review 61 3.1.2 Robe dyeing 61 3.1.3 Selection of dye yielding hio-materials for naturaldye extraction 63 3.2 Dyeing tests and quality criteria 63 3.3 Selection of fabric material to he dyed 65 3.3.1 Microscopic features 65 3.3.2 Physical properties 65 3.4 Preparation of cloth for dyeing (fabric pre treatment) 66 3.5 Extraction of colour giving parts from the bio-materials 3.5.1 Drying 3.5.2 Grinding 3.5.3 Sieving 3.6 Extraction of colourants 3.6.1 Aqueous extraction 3.6.2 Solvent extraction 3.6.3 Sonicator extraction 3.7 Filtration 3.8 \-1ordanting 3.8.1 Selection of mordants 3.8.2 Synthetic mordants 3.8.3 Natural mordants 3.9 Dyeing under different conditions 3.10 Techniques used for dyeing 3.1 0.1 Conventional dyeing 3.1 0.2 Sonicator dyeing 3.1 1 Evaluation of performance properties 3.11.1 Colourfastncss to washing 3.11.2 Colourfastncss to rubbing 3.11.3 Colour Fastness to light 3.11.4 Colour Fastness to perspiration 3.12 Equipment used for performance analysis VII ... I 67 68 68 68 69 69 70 70 71 71 72 72 72 72 74 74 74 75 75 75 76 76 77 3.13 Measurements and analysis 77 3.13.1 Colour measurements 77 3. 13.2 Evaluation of parameters related to colour matching system 78 3.13.3 Measurement of dye exhaustion 79 3.14 Equipment used for analysis 79 3.15 Economic consideration 79 3.16 Preparation of Ready- to- Usc Oye Concentrates 80 3.17 Market potential in Sri Lanka 80 13.17.1 Analysis of questionnaire 81 3.18 b aluation of enYironmental impact 81 3.19 A colour catalogue - 81 .l Chapter Four- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 4.1 Indigenous dyeing and dyeing methods 82 4.1.1 Traditional robe dyeing process 83 4.2 Investigation of dye yielding bio-materials for natural dye Extraction 84 4.3 Selection of fabric material to be dyed 4.3.1 Characteristics of cotton fabric 4.3.2 Characteristics of silk. fabric ... 4.3.3 Characteristics of \\OOI yarn 4.4 Extraction of colourants from the bio-materials 4.4.1 Grinding & Sieving 4.5 Extraction of colourants 4.6 Optimisation of dyeing conditions 4.7 Mordanting 4.8 Evaluation of fastness properties 4.9 Selection of dye yielding plants 4.10 Evaluation matrix and tested samples in the lahoratory 4.11 List of the plant materials selected 4.12 Detailed analysis of ten selected resource streams 4.12.1 Rambutan (.\"ephelium lappaceum) 4.12.2 \llarigold (Tegetll.\ erec:ta) 4.12.3 Kothala (Salacia retic:ulata) 4.12.4 Weniwal (( "osciniumfenestratum) VIII 84 84 85 85 85 85 86 87 88 88 88 90 92 93 93 99 105 110 4.12.5 Big onion (Allium cepa) 114 4.12.6 Mangus (Garcinia mangos/ana) 120 4.12. 7 Jak fruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus) 125 4.1 2.8 Tea (Came/ia sinensis) 131 4.12.9 Walmadata (Ruhia co-ord(fvlia) 137 4.12.1 0 Turmeric (Curcuma domestica) 143 4.13 Environmental emission characteristics of elnuents (COD Analysis) 148 4.14 Basic economic analysis 149 4.15 Storage of dyes (Preparation of RTDC of natural dye) 150 4.16 Opportunity to use bio materials for similar colours with different mordants and substrates 4.17 Analysis of questionnaire 4.18 Ways of finding resources 4.19 The views and comments from the exhibitions I Chapter Five- CONCL USIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 5.1 Findings ofthe study 5.2 Analysis of individual dye yielding plant materials 5.3 Positive Environmental Performance 5.4 Recommendations 5.5 Conclusion - Questionnaire .... ANNEXU RES ANNEXURE A ANNEXURE B ANNEXURE C - A I ist of bio-materials used for natural dye sources - Sieve analysis data REFERENCES ix 151 153 153 154 156 157 161 161 162 LIST OFT ABLES Table Page 2.1 Worlddyestuffusage 1992(Ilolme,2002) 14 2.2 Estimated annual global consumption of cellulosic dyes (Holme , 2002) 14 ") ., -·.) 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 3.1 ., ") .>.- 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 Pollution potential of some of the dyes and chemicals used in the textile industry Classification of dyes according to the dyeing methods 1\umber of natural dyes for dffercnt hues (Pardeshiand PauL 2002) Global sources of natural red dyes (I3hav.:na, 200 I) Global sources of natural blue dyes (13ha'Wna, 200 I) I Global sources of natural black dyes (Bhawna, 2001) Global sources of natural yellow dyes (Bhawna , 200 l) Global sources of natural green dyes (Bhawna, 2001) Global sources of natural brown dyes (Bhawna , 2001) Global sources of natural orange/peach dyes (Bhawna , 200 I) US companies selling natural dyes through internet The main requirements for a basic set of natural dyes ... Experimental liquor volumes Standard reference numbers for fastness tasting Wash fastness (WF) and rub fastness (RF) ratings Light fastness (LF) Ratings Equipment used for performance evaluation Equipment used in the performance analysis of dyed materials Characteristics of cotton fabrics Characteristics of silk fabrics Characteristics of wool yarns Sieve analysis data for N. lappacium sample Dye uptake values for different dyeing techniques Characteristics of selected natural dyes in Sri Lanka Selected bio- materials for detailed studies Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed \\ ith methanolic extract of X.lappaceum X 15 19 26 27 27 28 28 29 29 29 59 64 69 75 76 76 77 79 84 85 85 86 87 88-90 92 95 4.9 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of N. /appaceum 96 4.10 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed with methanolic extract of N. lappaceum 97 4.11 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn under conventional conditions of metal modanting with methanolic extract of N.lappaceum 97 4.12 Characterization of em ironmcntal impact 99 4.13 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract ofT. erect a I 0 I 4.14 Characteristics for silk. fabric dyed -with methanolic extract ofT. erectu 4.15 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed -with methanolic extract ofT. erecta 4.16 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, si lk fabrics and woof yarn under conventional dyeing with different metal modanting with methanolic extract ofT. erectu 4.17 Characterization of environmental impact 4.18 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of S. reticulutu 4.19 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of S. reticula/a ... 4.20 Characteristics for v.ool yarn dyed vvith methanolic extract of S. reticulata 4.21 Fastness properties of dyed cotton. silk fabrics and wool yam under conventional Dyeing of metal mocfanting v. ith methanolic extract of S. reticulata 4.22 Characterization of environmental impact 4.23 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C feneslratum 4.24 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C. fenestratum 4.25 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed with methanolic extract of C. fenestratum 4.26 Fastness properties of dyed cotton. silk fabrics and wool yam under comentional heating with different metal modanting with methanolic extract of C. fenestra/urn XI 102 102 103 104 106 107 108 108 109 Ill 112 112 113 4.27 Characterization of environmental impact 4.28 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of A. cepa 4.29 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of A. cepa 4.30 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed with mcthanolic extract of A. cepa 4.31 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn under conventional conditions of metal modanting with methanolic extract of A. cepa 4.32 Characterization of environmental impact 4.33 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of G. mangos/ana 4.34 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract qf: G. mangos/ana l 4.35 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed with methanolic extract of G. mangostana 4.36 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yam under conventional heating with different metal modanting with methanolic extract of G. mangos/ana 4.37 Characterization of environmental impact 4.38 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with rtl.ethanolic extract of A. heterophy/lus 4.39 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed"' ith methanolic extract of A. heterophyllus 4.40 Characteristics for wool yarns dyed V\ith methanolic extract of A. heterophyllus 4.41 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn under conventional conditions of metal modanting with methanolic extract of A. heterophy/lus 4.42 Characterization of enviromcntal impact 4.43 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C sinensis 4.44 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C. sinensis 4.45 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed '' ith methanolic extract of C. sinensis XII 114 116 117 117 118 119 121 122 123 124 125 127 127 128 129 130 132 133 134 4.46 Fastness properties of dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn under conventional dyeing with di ffcrcnt metal modanting with methanolic extract of C. sinensis 4.47 Characterization of environmental impact 4.48 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with mcthanolic extract of R. cordifolia 4.49 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed \.Vith methanolic extract of R. cordifolia 4.50 Characteristics for wool yarn dyed"' ith methanolic extract of R. cordifolia 4.51 Fastness properties of dyed cotton. silk fabrics and wool )'am under conventional heating with different metal modanting t'ith methanolic extract of R. cord{folia 135 136 138 139 140 141 4.52 Characterization of environmental impact 142 4.53 Characteristics for cotton fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C. domestica 4.54 Characteristics for silk fabric dyed with methanolic extract of C. domestica 4.55 Characteristics for wool yam dyed with.rnethanolic extract of C. domestica 4.56 Fastness properties of dyed cotton. silk fabrics and wool yam under conventional conditions of metal modanting with methanolic extract of ( ·. domes fica 4.57 Characterization of environmental impact 4.58 COD data Summary 4.59 Tolerance limits for effluents from textile industry discharge into inland surface waters 4.60 Cost of natural dyes to get standard depths 4.61 Catergorisation of colour obtain from bio-materials 4.62 Bio-materials with similar colours 4.63 Bio materials with different mordants 5.1 Bio materials with different mordants 5.2 Categorisation of colour obtained from bio-materials 5.3 Dye exhaustion percentages of I 0 bio-materials X Ill 144 145 146 147 148 148 149 150 151 152 153 160 160 160 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Peruvian textiles 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Textile dyeing in morocco Classification of textile colourants Puskola Book from Ambakkc Muhandiram 2.5 Apsara paintings at Sigiriya 2.6 Cave paintings at Dambulla temple 2.7 Durnbara mats 2.8 Masks painting in Sri Lanka 2.9 Laquor painted items 2.10 Body paintings by Henna 2.11 A woman at the loom 2.12 Natural dyed yarns 2.13 Natural dyed woven saree 2.14 Industrial scale natural dyeing 2.15 Natural dye kitchen 2.16 Spread of activities involving, natural dyes ip Sri Lanka 3.1 a.b Dyeing of robe and squeezing 3.2 Dyestuff extraction and dyeing step 3.3 Laboratory drying oven 3.4 Industrial grinding machine 3.5 Sieve analyser 3.6 Aqueous extraction of R. cord!f'olia 3.7 Solvent extraction unit 3.8 Sonicator 3.9 Vacuum filtration unit 3.10 Selection of optimum conditions for dyeing 3.11 Temperature time diagram for dyeing Process 3.12 Conventional dyeing in sample dyeing machine 3.13 CIE. L.a.b colour co-ordinate system l 4.1 Availability of natural dye sources regional distribution 4.2 Developed process tlo\v diagram for traditional robe dyeing XIV Page 8 9 20 44 48 48 50 51 53 54 55 58 58 58 58 58 62 65 68 68 68 69 70 70 71 73 73 74 78 82 83 4.3 Traditional robe dyed fabrics in the laboratory 4.4 Finely ground particles and their aqueous extracts 4.5 Dye uptake for bio-materials by different dyeing methods 4.6 Dyeing conditions 4.7a,b Raw N. lappaceum Fruit & dried pcricarps 4.8 UV-Vis spectrum ofmethanolic extract of N. lappaceum 4.9 Change in K/S values with different mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of N. /appaceum 4.10 Change in K/S values \.\ith different mordants for sil fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of lv·. lappaceum 4.11 Change in K/S values with different mordants for wool yams,after dyeing with methanolic extract of N. lappaceum l 4.12 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of N. lappaceum with di1Tcrent mordants 4.13a,bFresh T erecta and dried petals 4.14 UV -Vis spectrum of methanolic extract ofT erecta 4.15 Change in K/S values with di ITerent mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract ofT erecta 4.16 Change in K/S values with different mordant~ for silk fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract ofT erecta 4.17 Change in K/S values\.\ ith different mordants for wool yams after dyeing with methanolic extract ofT erecta 4.18 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic e){tract ofT erecta with different mordants 4.19a.b Leaves of S. reticula/a and bark 4.20 UV-Vis spectrum of mcthanolic extract of S. reticula/a 4.21 Change in K/S values with different mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of S. reticula/a 4.22 Change in K/S values with different mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing with mcthanolic extract of S. reticula/a 4.23 Change in K/S values 'With different mordants for wool yams after dyeing ·with methanolic extract of S. reticulata 4.24 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of S. reticula/a with different mordants XV 83 86 86 87 94 94 95 96 96 98 99 100 100 101 102 104 105 105 106 107 107 109 4.25a,bC. .fenestratum plant and dried bark 4.26 UV-Vis spectrum of methanol ic extract of C fenestral urn 4.27 Change in K/S values with dil'lcrcnt mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of C . .fimestratum 4.28 Change in K/S values with different mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing 110 110 Ill with methanolic extract of C. fimestratum Ill 4.29 Change in K/S values \.\ith dilTerent mordants for wool yams after dyeing with methanolic extract of C. fenestratum 112 4.30 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of C. .fenestratum with different mordants 4.31a.bA. cepa bulb and skin 4.32 UV-Vis spectrum ofmethanolic extract of A. cepa l 4.33 Change in K/S values with different mordants for cotton fabrics after 114 115 115 dyeing with methanolic extract of A. cepa I 16 4.34 Change in K/S values with different mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of A .cepa 116 4.35 Change in K/S values with different mordants for wool yams after dyeing with methanolic extract of A. cepa 117 4.36 Fabric samples dyed with methanol ic extrac.t of A. cepa ·with different mordants 4.37a.bfresh fruit of G. mangos! ana and dried peri carp 4.38 UV-Vis spectrum of methanolic extract of G. mangostana 4.39 Change in K/S values with different mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of G. mungostana 4.40 Change in K/S values with different mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of G. mangostana 4.41 Change in K/S values with diflcrcnt mordants for wool 119 120 120 121 122 yarns after dyeing with methanol ic extract of G. mangos/ana 122 4.42 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of G. mangostana with different mordants ; 124 4.43a.bA. heterophyllus plant and saw dust 125 4.44 lJV-Vis spectrum of methanolic extract of A. heterophyllus bark 126 4.45 Change in K/S 'alues ""'ith different mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of A. heterophyllus 126 XVI 4.46 Change in K!S values with different mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing with mcthanolic extract of A. heterophyllus 127 4.47 Change in K/S values with different mordants for wool yams after dyeing with methanolic extract of A. heterophyllu 128 4.48 Fabric samples dyed with mcthanolic extract of A. heterophyl/us wilh different mordants 130 4.49a.bFresh tea (C. sinensis) leaves and dried tea leaves 131 4.50 UV-Vis spectrum of mcthanolic extract of C. sinensis 131 4.51 Change in K/S values \\ith difTcrent mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of C. sinensis 4.52 Change in K!S values with different mordants for silk fabric after dyeing I with methanolic extract of ( ·. sinensis 4.53 Change in K/S values with different mordants for wool yarns after dyeing with methanolic extract of C. sinensis 4.54 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of C. sinensis with different mordants 4.55a,b R. cord((olia Plant and dried chips 4.56 UV-Vis spectrum of methanolic extract of R. cordifolia 4.57 Change in K/S values"' ith different mordants for cotton fabric after with 132 133 134 136 137 137 dyeing methanolic extract of R. cordi(olia 138 4.58 Change in K/S values v.ith different mordants for silk fabric after dyeing with mcthanolic extract of R. cordijiJiia 139 4.59 Change in K!S values \\ith different mordants for wool yarns after dyeing with methanolic extract of R. cord(folia 140 4.60 Fabric samples dyed with methanolic extract of R.cordifolia with different mordants 142 4.61 a.b C. domes fica plant and root 143 4.62 UV-Vis spectrum of methanolic extract of C. domestica 143 4.63 Change in K/S values with different mordants for cotton fabrics after dyeing with methanol ic extract of C. domeslica 144 4.64 Change in K/S values v\ith diiTcrcnt mordants for silk fabrics after dyeing with methanolic extract of C. domeslic:a 4.65 Change in K/S values "' ith different mordants for wool ) ams after dyeing with methanolic extract of C. dorneslica XVII 145 145 4.66 Fabric samples dyed with mcthanolic extract of C. domeslica with different mordants 147 4.67 Ready to use Dye Concentrates (RTDF) of natural dyes 151 4.68 Analysis of questionnaire 153 4.69 Sourcing resources 154 4.70 Some views of the exhibition 155 l ... XVIII AATCC AD BASF BC BOD BMICH CD Cl CIELAB COD DNA ESCAP FTIR ICI ICP IR ISO K tS LF MLR MT A ND owf RTDC RF T!\ UV-Vis \VF \\-HO ABBREVIATIONS American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists Anno Domini - A Iter Death Badischc Anilin und Soda Fabrik (German chemical products co 1111 w flJ'J Before Christ Biochemical 0\.ygen Demand Bandaranayal.c \11cmorial International Conference Hall Compact Dis!. Colour lndc.\ ( 'ommission Internal ionale d'Edairage Chemical Oxygen Demand Dcoxyribo Nucleic Acid l Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific Fourier Transform In l'ra Red spectroscopy Imperial Chemical Industries Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrophotometer Infra-red International Standard Organisl'Hion Relationship bet,,een Absorption and Scattering Spectrum Light Fastness Material to Liquor Ratio Metric tonncs Not Applicable ot Detected On Weight or Fabric Ready to Dye Concentrate Rubbing Fastness Tannic acid Ultra Violet Visible Spectroscopy Wash Fastness \\ orld Health Organisation \I\