ROLE OF A CUSTOMER ORIENTED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FACILITY TO STRENGTHEN THE JONES NEW YORK LABEL H.M. Dasharatha Herath This dissertation was submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of Master of Science Department of Textile and Clothing Technology University of Moratuwa Srilanka September 2007 91260 ABSTRACT Gain of maximum returns by providing an integrated service to the buyer must been sured every single day in the fashion industry. Because, the level of value addition to the fashion reaches the prosperity in fashions business. As a franchise license holder from the buyer it is very important Madison Maidens Inc - USA to take extra attention in the front-end activities of the total process. A perfect start is a success of the end. Front end activities like deciding fabrics, trims; colors and design esthetics are not standardized as the bulk manufacturing. It will be a success only because of the rational decision-making and the amount of value adds in all the areas of product development. By setting up a comprehensively addressed product development process, all the team members would be effectively focused on the prospect of value addition; there by increasing buyer's & its retailer's confidence on sourcing from Madison Maidens Inc there after. i ROLE OF A CUSTOMER ORIENTED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FACILITY TO STRENGTHEN THE JONES NEW YORK LABEL H.M. DASHARATHA HERATH THIS DISSERTATION WAS SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MORATUWA, IN THE PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENT FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE. DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY UNIVERSITY OF MORATUWA SRI LANKA SEPTEMBER 2007 ii DECLARATION I here by certify that entire work done in this dissertation was carried out by me under the supervision of Dr. Nirmali de Silva and the work included in this dissertation has not been submitted to any other academic qualification at any institution. ……………………………………… H. M Dasharatha Herath (Candidate) According to the best of my knowledge, the above statement of the candidate is correct. ………………………………………... Dr, Nirmali de Silva. (Project Supervisor) iii ABSTRACT “Role of Customer Oriented Product Development Facility to Strengthen the Jones New York label” Gain of maximum returns by providing an integrated service to the buyer must be ensured every single day in the fashion industry. Because, the level of value addition to the fashion reaches the prosperity in fashions business. As a franchise license holder from the buyer it is very important Madison Maidens Inc – USA to take extra attention in the front-end activities of the total process. A perfect start is a success of the end. Front end activities like deciding fabrics, trims; colors and design esthetics are not standardized as the bulk manufacturing. It will be a success only because of the rational decision-making and the amount of value adds in all the areas of product development. By setting up a comprehensively addressed product development process, all the team members would be effectively focused on the prospect of value addition; there by increasing buyer’s & its retailer’s confidence on sourcing from Madison Maidens Inc thereafter. iv Acknowledgement It is great pleasure to thank all those who were call on their inputs to make this dissertation success. Special thanks to Dr. Nirmali de Sillva who directed & encourages me to do this dissertation. I would like adding Mr. Steven Kattan – Chairman – Madison Maidens Lanka Inc – USA and Mr.A. Sukumara – Managing Director Star garments Ltd sending me through various awareness programs where I got a lot of experience that I used when doing this dissertation. Mr. Sanath Amarthuga – General Manager who first decided to recruit me in Madison Maidens Lanka (pvt) ltd & shared bunch of his experience in the garment industry with me. Judy Autaki – EVP in Madison Maidens Inc – USA giving me a lot of opportunities to learn about effective product development. My heart full thanks to Mr. Andre Byren – former Managing Director in the Madison Maidens Lanka (pvt) Ltd. who encourage me to do higher education. Mr. D.P.L.P Jayaweera who facilitate me to join in the garment industry. Mr. Chamath de Alwis – General manager Star Garments Ltd for sharing his exposure in product development. Mr. Vinod Rathnayake – Manager finance & administration Ceylon Tobacco Company. Ms Marisol Garcia – Fabric & trim manager Madison Maidens Inc – USA giving me valuable information about Jones New York Intimate apparel. Special thanks to all my colleagues in Madison Maidens Lanka Ms Beth Chrisostomo, Samples room Manager, Mr. Dilan Jayasekara, Mr.Krishan Mohomad, Mr. Manoj Fernando, Mr. Sanjaya Rajakaruna, Mr. Charuka zosa, Mr. H.M.S Lasantha, Mr. Chaminda Mendis, Mr Sudharshan Gayan, Mr, Ranagan Fernando, Mr. Upali Lianarachchi, giving me their wonder full support in organizing material for the dissertation.. All the support given to me is greatly appreciated!!!!! v CONTENTS Content Page No  Declaration ……………………………………………… ii  Abstract………………………………………………….. iii  Acknowledgement……………………………………….. iv  Contents………………………………………………….. v - viii  List of Figures……………………………………………. ix  List of Tables…………………………………………….. x  Chapter – 1 ………………………………………………. 1 1.0.0 INTRODUCTION……………………………………….1 1.0.1 Jones Apparel Group – USA ………………….. 1 1.0.2 The Jones Apparel Group Brands……………. 1 1.0.3 Corporate Profile of the Jones Apparel Group…. 2 1.0.4 History of the Jones Apparel Group…………… 4 1.0.5 Jones Apparel Group - Standards for ………… 8 Contractors and Suppliers 1.1.0 Madison Maidens Inc – USA ……………….. 10 1.2.0 Madison Maidens Lanka (Pvt) Ltd. – Sri Lanka. 11 1.4.0 Sri Lankan Apparel Industry & Product ……… 12 Development 1.5.0 Objectives……………………………………… 13 2.0.0 LITERATURE REVIEW……………………………….. 15 2.1.0 What is product development? ………………… 15 2.1.1 Specific aspects involved in …………………… 16 product development 2.1.2 Three principles of effective ………………….. 17 product development. 2.1.3 Product development – Is value addition ……… 18 vi to the product. 2.2.0 Product development process – ……………….. 18 JONES NEW YORK intimate apparel. 2.2.1 Product development process …………………. 20 chart – JONES NEW YORK intimate apparels 2.2.2 Theoretical model of the apparel design & …… 21 development process. 2.2.3 Identified factors for eliminating the two …….. 22 phases of “The refinement of business objectives” and “the attainment of commercial products” 2.2.4 Retail Product development model……………. 23 2.2.5 Monitoring system of the ……………………… 24 product development process. 3.0.0 METHODOLOGY……………………………………… 28 3.1.0 Past & present sales trend analysis – …………... 28 An over view. 3.2.0 Color forecasting analysis……………………… 31 3.3.0 Development of colors palettes & Prints……… 32 3.3.1 Color Palettes –………………………………… 32 3.3.2 Print Development –…………….……………… 33 3.4.0 Presentation of colors & prints to ……………… 35 JAG for final selection. 3.5.0 Finalization of prints…………………………… 36. 3.6.0 Sending prints to artwork development………… 36 3.7.0 Color card Distribution………………………….36 3.8.0 Fabric presentation & selection………………… 38 3.9.0 Preparations of the line plan based on …………. 39 agreed silhouettes & fabrics. 3.10.0 Fast Tracking samples (Knock offs)-………… 43 3.11.0 Collection of trims & accessory……………….. 45 3.12.0 Presentation of trims & accessories for selection. 46 3.13.0 Creation of assortment planners with ………….. 47 projected units. vii 3.14.0 Creation of minimum quantity chart for……… 51 fabrics, trims & accessories based on the assortment planner units. 3.15.0 Sample fabric, trim & accessory ordering……. 55 3.16.0 Product designing and concept review……….. 57. 3.17.0 Colors & concepts review by the JAG………… 62 3.18.0 Pass design sketches to Sri Lanka operations…. 64 for Sample development. 3.18.1 Pattern making –……………………………….. 64 3.18.2 Proto type samples making using ……………. 72 3.18.3 Costing- ………………………………………... 80 3.18.4 Line sheets-……………………………………..85 3.18.5 Sample photography –……………………….. 87 3.19.0 Editing the design collection & ……………… 89 ordering final design samples. 3.20.0 Model show room setup and final ……………. 90 Presentation of line to JAG. 4.0.0 OBSERVATION RESULT & DATA…………………... 95 5.1.0 Sales Forecast – ……………………………… 100 Jones NY – Feb 07 – Essentials. 5.0.0 ANALYSIS & DSCUSSION OF RESULTS…………… 102 5.2.0 Calculation 3.18.E1 – Fabric saving after …… 103 pleated pattern was altered. 5.3.0 Calculation 3.18.K – Saving by using a ……… 104 ready-made trim. 6.0.0 CONCLUSIONS & RECOMMENDATIONS……. 105 6.1.0 Use of Internet for sales data ………………….. 105 administration for analysis purposes 6.2.0 State analysis-………………………………….. 106 6.3.0 Preparation of product line plan……………….. 106 6.4.0 Collection of trims & accessories, preparation.. 107 viii of minimum charts and selection. 6.5.0 Pass design sketches to Sri Lanka operations …. 107 for patterns Samples, costing, line sheets & photographs. 6.5.1 Shipping proto type samples to ……………….. 108 NEW YORK office. 6.6.0 Effective communications -…………………….. 108 6.7.0 Creative mind set in the ……………………….. 109 product development team. REFERANCES………………………………………… 110 ix List of figures Figure code Name of the figure Page No 2.2.1 The model of product development process………… 20 2.2.B Theoretical model of apparel design………………… 21 and development process 2.2.C Retail product development model……………………. 23 2.2.D Design Calendar Aug’ 07 Market……………………… 26 Option 1 / Option 2 Print development……………………………………… 34 3.16.A Collection of designs for a “Classics” group…………… 60 3.16.B Best Seller – Spring 2007………………………………. 61 3.17.A Color mix in fashion industry…………………………... 63 3.18.A Design Sketch…………………………………………... 65 3.18.C Consistency in similar looking silhouettes……………… 67 3.18.D Mini marker before pattern alteration…………………... 70 3.18.E Mini marker after pattern alteration……………………. 71 3.19.1 Five thread over lock operation………………………… 78 Clean finish with single needle stitch 3.18.L Line sheets – Delivery 1/25/2007………………………. 86 3.18.M Sample photograph……………………………………… 88 3.20.A Model show room set up…………………………………92 3.20.B Model fixture……………………………………………. 93 x List of tables Table code Name of the table Page No 3.7.A Color card……………………………………………… 37 3.9.A Development line plan………………………………… 42 3.13.A Assortment planner……………………………………. 48 3.13.B By store size scale……………………………………… 49 3.14.A Trim minimum chart ………………………………….. 53 3.14.B Development sheet…………………………………….. 54 3.18.B Standard body measurements – Jones New York.…….. 66 3.18.G1 Production specification & Technical………………….. 74 package – Sewing construction 3.18.G2 Production specification & Technical………………….. 75 package – Special instructions Production specification & Technical………………….. 76 package – Cutter’s must 3.18.H The fitting scheme for a bodice………………………… 77 3.18.J Cost Sheet……………………………………………… 82 3.18.K Cost comparison of different operational options……… 84 4.1.A Sale units January 03…………………………………… 96 4.1.B Sale units January 04…………………………………… 97 4.1.C Sale units January 05…………………………………… 98 4.1.D Sale units January 06…………………………………… 99 4.2.A Sales forecast …………………………………………... 100 4.2.B Sales forecast contd..………………………………........ 101 xi Following s/b printed on the spin of the book H.M.D Herath Master of Science 2002